How to Convert Clip Studio Brushes to Procreate
StyleFrame Team7 min read
You can't open Clip Studio Paint (CSP) brushes in Procreate directly, because Procreate doesn't read the .sut format. You have two options. A third-party converter such as Brushfactory can turn .sut files into native .brush files, or you can rebuild the brush by exporting its tip image from CSP and recreating the settings in Procreate's Brush Studio. Neither route guarantees an identical feel, so plan to test and tweak every brush you bring over.
Why there's no one-click conversion
CSP and Procreate use different brush engines. A .sut file stores tip and grain images plus engine-specific parameters for pressure response, spacing, color mixing, and texture. Procreate's .brush format expects its own parameter model. That's why forum threads on Procreate's feedback board, and on Clip Studio's Ask forum (where users ask the reverse question, Procreate to CSP), come back to the same answer: no official import exists, and the practical fix is to recreate the brush.
Procreate's team has said it added Photoshop .abr import because many brush makers work in Photoshop, and that supporting other programs is a harder case to justify. Don't count on native .sut support arriving.
Before you start, check the license on any brush you downloaded from Clip Studio Assets or bought from a creator. Converting a brush for personal use is one thing, but redistributing a converted version is another, and many creators prohibit it.
Method 1: Use a .sut to .brush converter
The fastest route is a web converter. Brushfactory is one example. It accepts .sut files, including multi-brush files, and outputs a native Procreate file: .brush for a single brush, .brushset for a set. According to the service, it carries over tip and grain images, stroke path settings, pressure and tilt curves, and texture settings, and it flags any setting that has no exact Procreate equivalent.
The workflow is short:
- Locate the .sut file on your computer.
- Upload the file to the converter and choose Procreate as the target.
- Download the .brush or .brushset file.
- Send it to your iPad and tap it. Procreate imports it into your brush library.
The service says a free account includes a monthly allowance of conversions, with a paid tier for unlimited and batch use. Check current terms before you plan around a large library.
Treat the claims of matching feel as a starting point. Converters map settings to the closest Procreate equivalent, and Procreate's smudge and wet-mixing behavior doesn't work like CSP's. Paint with the converted brush next to the original and compare before you trust it on a client job.
Method 2: Rebuild the brush manually
If the converter misses something, or you only need a handful of brushes, rebuilding gives you the most control. Artists commonly do it by capturing the brush's tip shape and matching the behavior by eye.
Step 1: Capture the tip and grain from CSP
Open the brush's sub tool detail settings in CSP and go to the brush tip or shape section. Take a screenshot of the tip image, and of the texture if the brush uses one. Make a note of the key values too: size, spacing, density, flow, and which properties respond to pen pressure.
Step 2: Clean the image into a usable shape
Send the screenshot to your iPad and crop it tight. A usable Procreate shape or grain source needs to be:
- High contrast, with the tip as solid as possible against a plain background
- Free of UI elements and screenshot compression artifacts
- Square or close to it, at a decent resolution so strokes stay crisp at large sizes
In Procreate, select the tip area, remove the background, and fill the shape so it's solid. Procreate shapes use white as the painted area. If your result looks inverted, invert the image and try again. Export it as a PNG.
Step 3: Build the brush in Brush Studio
Duplicate a Procreate brush that already behaves roughly like your target. A pencil, ink pen, or airbrush base will save time. Then:
- Open Brush Studio and go to Shape.
- Choose Edit, then Import, and bring in your PNG as the shape source.
- If the brush has a paper or surface texture, import it as the grain source the same way.
- Match spacing, jitter, and scatter to your notes from CSP.
- Set up pressure response and taper so the stroke responds the way the original did.
- Adjust size and opacity limits until strokes at a few sizes look like the reference.
Make a test sheet in both apps. Draw a slow line, a fast line, a light-pressure stroke, a heavy-pressure stroke, a tight curve, and a filled area. Compare the two side by side and adjust in small increments.
Method 3: Replace instead of convert
Sometimes the quickest fix is to skip conversion. If a CSP brush is a common type, such as a G-pen, a textured marker, or a watercolor, a native Procreate brush may get you most of the way. Some creators may sell comparable sets for both programs, so searching for the same brush maker's Procreate version can be easier than converting. Consider this especially for brushes that depend on CSP's color mixing, since those are the hardest to translate.
What usually doesn't carry over
Set expectations before you spend an evening on a brush:
- Color mixing and blending behavior. Users on Procreate's forums have long pointed out that Procreate lacks CSP-style average blending and mixing. A converter can map a mixing brush to the nearest smudge or wet response, but it won't act the same.
- Dual-color brushes. CSP brushes that map light and dark values of a tip to two colors have no clear equivalent in Procreate, according to forum users.
- Image-hose or nozzle brushes. Brushes that stamp full-color images in sequence are not something Procreate handles in the same way.
- Pressure feel. Even with identical curves on paper, the Apple Pencil on an iPad and a pen tablet on a desktop feel different. Expect to re-tune.
If a brush depends on one of these features, plan to approximate it rather than reproduce it.
A quick QA checklist
Before you rely on a converted brush in production:
- Compare it against the original at small, medium, and large sizes.
- Test taper at the start and end of a stroke.
- Check how it behaves over existing paint, not just on a blank canvas.
- Check edge quality at your final canvas resolution, since low-resolution tips get soft or blocky at large sizes.
- Save a named copy so you can revert if later edits go wrong.
Where this fits in a motion and VFX pipeline
Motion designers and animators often use these brushes for frames that end up in a larger project: hand-painted textures, boiling line work, concept frames, or style references. Getting the brush right matters because that texture is what you'll be asked to keep consistent across a sequence.
This is where Styleframe can be useful after the drawing is done. It's an AI video and motion tool built for artistic control, not a one-click generator. You can use a painted frame from Procreate as a keyframe in Frames-to-Video, or as a reference for Restyle and Ink-and-Paint, which transfer a look from reference images or video clips onto footage. Every generation is driven by your references and keyframes, iteration is non-destructive, and output is production-ready 4K. Other tools cover 2D-to-3D, Turntable, Remove Background, and 4K Upscale for cleanup and finishing.
It fits an existing pipeline rather than replacing one. Styleframe exports image sequences, so the result drops into After Effects or Nuke for compositing, and an After Effects plugin is on the way. Your converted brushes then do their job at the start of the process, defining the look that carries through to the final shot.
Frequently asked questions
Can Procreate import .sut files directly? No. Procreate doesn't read .sut files, so a conversion or manual rebuild is required.
Can I export CSP brushes as Photoshop .abr files and import those? Procreate imports .abr files, but that doesn't help with .sut files, so this isn't a clean workaround. The tip-image method above is more reliable.
Will converted brushes feel identical? Not guaranteed. Expect to test and tweak, especially for textured, mixing, and wet brushes.
What's the best option for a large brush library? Try a converter first for batch work, then hand-fix the brushes you use most. Reserve manual rebuilds for the handful that matter.