How to Cell Shade Procreate
StyleFrame Team7 min read
To cel shade in Procreate, put your flat colors on separate layers, clip a new layer to each color, and paint shadows with a hard-edged brush or a Lasso selection filled with a single darker tone. Set the shadow layer to Multiply, usually at reduced opacity, so it darkens the base color without muddying it. Keep every shadow edge crisp, limit yourself to one or two tone steps, and choose one light direction before you start.
What cel shading means in Procreate
Cel shading imitates hand-painted animation cels. Instead of smooth gradients, you get flat color areas separated by hard-edged shadows and highlights. The look comes from a few ordinary tools used with discipline: layers, clipping masks, Alpha Lock, selections, and a hard brush.
A clean layer structure matters more than any brush choice. Decide on the structure first and the shading itself goes quickly.
Step 1: Set up clean flats
Start with line art on its own layer, or a rough sketch if you plan to paint without outlines. Then put each major color region on its own layer: skin, hair, shirt, trousers, props. Keep the fills tidy. Stray color outside the lines forces you to erase later, and it shows once you add hard shadows on top.
Name your layers as you go. A character with fifteen unnamed layers becomes difficult to manage once every color has a shadow layer attached.
Two setup options help with the fills:
- ColorDrop: Drag a color from the swatch into a closed shape to fill it.
- Reference layer: Setting the line art as Reference lets ColorDrop respect the outlines while you fill on a different layer. Only one layer can be the Reference at a time, so plan around that limit.
Step 2: Build a base silhouette layer
A silhouette base layer is the step that makes cel shading faster in Procreate, because it lets you shade the whole character at once. It works like this:
- Select all your flat-color layers, but leave out the line art and any background.
- Swipe down with three fingers to open the copy and paste menu, then choose Copy All.
- Create a new empty layer below the lowest color layer.
- Swipe down with three fingers again and paste.
You now have one layer containing every color merged together. Turn on Alpha Lock for it and fill it with a color that doesn't appear in your palette, such as a bright magenta. This is now a solid silhouette of the whole character.
Next, clip your individual color layers to this silhouette. Anything you paint above will then stay inside the character's outline, even if your flats were slightly sloppy at the edges. If a shadow layer is clipped to a color layer which is itself clipped to the base, the whole stack stays contained.
Step 3: Create the shadow layer
Add a new layer above your flats and turn on Clipping Mask so it only affects the pixels beneath it. Then:
- Open the layer's blend mode and choose Multiply.
- Reduce opacity to somewhere around 50 percent as a starting point. Adjust to taste, since the right value depends on how dark your flats are.
- Pick a shadow color. A desaturated purple or blue often reads better than plain gray or black, but this is a style decision.
With Multiply, the same shadow color behaves differently over each flat color. A skin tone, a red jacket, and blue jeans all darken in a way that stays tied to their own hue, which is why one shadow layer can serve the whole character.
If you want finer control, use one shadow layer per material instead. That costs more layers but lets you tint each shadow separately, for example warmer on skin and cooler on fabric.
Step 4: Paint hard-edged shadows
There are two reliable ways to get crisp edges.
Hard brush painting
Use a brush with a hard edge and no texture, at a large size. Paint the shadow shapes directly, following the form: under the jaw, beneath the hairline, along the side of the body away from the light.
Lasso and fill
For precise geometric shadows, use the Selection tool. Draw the shadow shape, then fill it by dragging the color swatch into the selection. The advantage is that your edge is exactly the shape you drew, with no brush wobble.
You can also mix the two: lasso the major shadow shapes first, then use a hard brush for the small accents where drawing a selection would be fussy.
Whichever method you pick, keep the shapes simple. The more complex the shadow shape, the less it looks like an animation cel and the more it looks like painted rendering. Fewer, bolder shapes read better, especially if the artwork is going to move.
Step 5: Add a highlight layer
Create another clipped layer above the shadows. Use the Normal blend mode and a lighter tint of the base color. Then paint a hard-edged highlight on the lit side of the form, such as the top of the hair, the shoulder, or the edge of the nose.
Some styles use only one shadow step and no highlights. Others add a second, deeper shadow tone for reflected or core shadows. Pick a tone count and hold to it across the entire character. Consistency matters more than the particular number.
Troubleshooting common Procreate problems
ColorDrop fills the whole layer. If your line art is still set as the Reference layer and you try to fill on the same layer, the fill floods the entire thing and ignores the lines. Turn off Reference, fill the shape, then use a clipping mask to contain the result. Alternatively, choose either a selection or a clipping mask approach, since either one can work on its own.
You can't get both outline and shadow division in one fill. Procreate allows only one Reference layer at a time. If your region boundaries and your shadow dividers live on different layers, merge them into one layer for referencing purposes, or use Lasso selection for shadows instead.
Shadows spill outside the character. Check that the shadow layer is actually clipped and that the layer below it contains the shape you expect. If you rebuilt the base silhouette, re-clip the color layers to it.
Edges look jagged. Work at a high canvas resolution and zoom in when finalizing.
Flatting is slow. Procreate is not great at the production-style flatting workflow used in comics, especially when coordinating several artists. If that is your core need, a dedicated tool may serve you better. For single-artist illustration and character art, the layer method above is usually enough.
Taking Procreate cel art into motion
Many motion designers and animators use Procreate for character design, style frames, and key poses, then move into After Effects, Premiere Pro, Blender, or Nuke for the actual animation and compositing. A few habits make the handoff smoother:
- Export layered files or separate PNGs for line art, flats, shadows, and highlights, so you can rig, puppet, or time them independently in After Effects.
- Keep shadow layers as discrete elements so you can adjust their opacity or blend mode in the composite.
- Use a consistent canvas size and transparent backgrounds for every export.
If you want to extend a Procreate cel look into moving footage without redrawing every frame, an AI video tool such as is one option to explore. As with any generative step, review results frame by frame, since line weight and shadow shapes may need cleanup in your compositing tool.
Quick cel shading checklist
- Flat colors on separate, named layers
- Merged silhouette base with Alpha Lock, and flats clipped to it
- Shadow layer clipped, set to Multiply, with opacity tuned
- Hard-edged brush or Lasso fills
- One light direction, one or two tone steps
- Separate layers kept for export if the art will be animated
Once the structure is in place, shading becomes a matter of drawing a handful of confident shapes. Spend your time on those shapes and the layer setup will take care of the rest.